Thursday, November 4, 2010

contemplations





Okay, so I'm not in France anymore, but i have been thinking about my time over there a lot lately and I miss it. I miss it very much. I've been thinking about going back next summer.. where to? Possibly back to Tours. It would be familiar, but perhaps redundant. Maybe I need to go somewhere more posh like Lyon, or Toulouse.

I am watching the game and all I can think about is what my life used to be. It used to consist of meaningful conversations with a woman who knew little about my procrastination and severe genetic republican disorder. We sat together for dinner every night. We ate at seven thirty. I used to pass the day speculating on what would be set out for me to devour. The first week there was near silence while we ate. While she consumed the plat du jour, her eyes fixed on the orange plates, I would study her. The woman’s hair was kalamata olive and her skin was like almost burnt brioche. Her wrinkles were tightened corn silks. Teeth gray from smoke. She rolled her own cigarettes. Blonde tobacco and tiny sheets of paper sealed with a lick of saliva. Every night the food was different. Algerian, but always a fresh baguette wrapped thoughtfully in a tea towel. She made me roasted beef bones, with the marrow dark and purple, oozing out into the oils tainted with oregano and garlic. She liked the marrow. It reminded her of her mother and Algeria. The times before the war carried them away from l’Algérie.

When I left her after five weeks, she had tiny tears in the corners of her eyes, but when Jean-Daniel broke up with her, she cried. I was in my room and heard the door slam too early in the night. She threw down her boxy purse on the tile of apartment trois cent et un – trois, zero, un. Screaming Je suis fini, je suis fini avec lui. She was finished. She said he said nothing. Rien. They went for a drink and then it was finished. I did not have the words to console her. I did not know them yet. So, I made my Algerian woman tea and asked her to proofread my essay about the deserts in Saudi Arabia. She corrected my spelling and told me I had done well. I tried to tell her that he wasn’t worth it. He wasn’t worth les gouttes. Raindrops. I meant les larmes. Tears. That’s when she told me about the divorce and how it happened ten years before. He was in Paris now, she said. She didn’t love Jean-Daniel. They were just lovers, she said. The loneliness of the apartment was too loud, but Jean-Daniel filled the noiselessness with commotion, juvenile and exaggerated. My life used to be filled with awkward morning encounters of a tan, white haired Jean-Daniel, wearing a small floral bathrobe and now that was finished.

It used to be filled with early morning instant coffee and brisk walks past that tall, tattered medieval tower. I always thought it completely impossible that the bombardment of the first and second World Wars barely ruptured the stone, or brick or whatever it was made out of. I walked past that tower everyday for five weeks. Looking up. Pondering upon the idea of something protruding up so high, yet refusing to be hit.
I used to stop by the bakery across from the square, only when the night before prevented me from waking up in time for instant black coffee and plain white yogurt. The glass doors to le boulangerie were heavy from the pressure of the odor of sweet yeast and buttery flakes. The baker wasn’t friendly. She asked me what I wanted and that was all. No bonjour. No comment allez-vous. I used to think affability was an everyday necessity, especially in the baking industry, but really, it’s overrated.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

my deepest apologies

(Christy, Me, and Alexandra on our last night on the streets of Tours)

I am so sorry that it is August 22, and I still haven't finished "bloggin'" about my miniature French life. I promise there will be entries very, very soon. These next posts will be different because they have had time to mature and marinate in my mind, which by the way has been overcrowded with unnecessary odds and ends lately. I expect nothing less than thorough and insightful archiving from myself, so let's hope that my intentions are somewhat attainable. À bientôt mes amies!

Sunday, June 13, 2010

vouvray


That same day we went to a famous Touraine winery, Vouvray. We took a tour of the caves where the wine is stored, and then had a wine tasting. Perfect way to end the excursion.

Over eight million bottles are stored in the huge cave. The stone taken out of these old caverns was used to construct various châteaux and other buildings that can be found in the Loire Valley. After we toured the caves, we went and watched a video that did the wine making process no justice. The video was completely boring and showed how machines cork the bottles - I guess I had a very romanticized vision of how wine is produced, probably because I associate snobby wine with complication.

My friend Christy!

le château de chenonceau


Every Wednesday, most students at the institute get out at noon. This half day provides us with extra time to go on institute organized excursions - among other things. Last Wednesday I got to go see le Château de Chenonceau. I have been learning about this château probably since ninth grade. This famous castle has occupied pages in every French textbook I have ever used. Everyone in my group got to come on the trip, so it was fun for us to reunited again. The château was constructed in the eleventh century over the River Cher (the other river in the Loire Valley). The complex and intricate design of the structure is amazing, I can not imagine how it was constructed. The front of the castle was under reonvation, so that was sad, but the rest of the building was incredible. The gardens are fabulous as well.

This is the chapel that is located inside of the château. Sadly, the original stained glass windows were blown out during the second world war.

This wing of the château was used as a hospital during WWI - there is a plaque on the wall commemorating the lives lost in the infirmary.

I learned that this castle was also used a means of escape during the Nazi occupation of France. Since the château could also be used as a bridge, people would flee to the other side of the river that still remained free.

sunday morning mass and cake


YESSS, I know that I am a week behind on posting, but I literally come home from school, do homework, eat and then fall asleep - so naturally, posting is not on my daily to-do list - even though it should be.
LAST SUNDAY after getting in at midnight from the Mont Saint-Michel excursion, I woke up early and met my two friends, Christy and Alexandra for a Catholic mass at Cathédrale Saint-Gatien. Alexandra is a devout catholic and Christy and I were curious to see what all of the commotion was about, so we decided to join her. There is a BEAUTUFUL cathédrale right here in Tours that was constructed sometime between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries in the Romanesque style. The reason why there is such a huge time gap is because the cathédrale was burned down and destroyed a couple of times. The facade of this building is absolutely breathtaking. I had only been to mass one time before (during confirmation), so I was confused the whole service (partly because it was all in French). There was a very pious and lavish aura to the entire duration of the service that I can not even begin to describe. I felt like I did in Sacre Coeur, completely quiet and unguarded in front of the Lord.

After mass, I came home to a delicious Algerian meal in the midst of construction. Malika was making these crêpe (really thin pancakes) pouch things. They were filled with a cooked chicken, onion and parsley mixture and right before she sealed the pouch with a dab of water around the edges, she broke an egg. She then sauteed the pouches in some olive oil until the egg was cooked (with the yolk still pop-able) and golden. Once you cut into the pouch, the yummy runny yellow part of the egg came gushing out. It was delishhh.

We also had sliced tomatoes and BREAD - the french eat bread for literally every single meal - breakfast, snack, lunch, snack, dinner, dessert....

AND for dessert - yogurt cake (Malika called them little cakes, but I call them muffins). She says she makes cake every Sunday.


mont saint-michel


Last Saturday a rather large group (probably 150+students) took buses to Mont-Saint Michel. It was about a four hour bus ride.. there and back. Good thing our bus driver was a stand up comedien/chanteur (singer), so the bus ride wasn't as bad as it could have been. We had to meet for departure at 6:45AM. It was a little rough waking up but so worth the trip. Mont St. Michel is located in the lower Normandy region of France. The landmass was once a bay, but it has now been eroded into a tidal island. In the past, when it was high tide, the island was virtually unreachable by foot, but now there has been a causeway constructed that joins the island to the continent. It is thought that Mont St. Michel dates back to 709 when a bishop (Aubert, of Avranches) had an abbey built in honor of the Archangel, thus making the island a perfect place for pilgramage. It's a tiny city within itself. In the tenth century more people moved onto the island, creating a small village below the abbey's walls. It was a really pretty day - when the sun was out. Since we were on the Atlantic Ocean, the wind was freezing. After we went up and in the village and abbey, we made our way to Saint Malo for dinner. The walled city can be found situated on the English Channel in Bretagne (Brittany). This ocean village was also invaded by the Allies on D-Day. It was definitely an enchanting city, but I seriously could not appreciate it because I was unable to tear my attention away from my chattering teeth.

(view from the top of the mont)

(the steeple of the sanctuary - we were so high up, we were in the clouds!)

Sunday, June 6, 2010

l'Institut de Touraine


Such cute little school!! There are people from all over the world studying here. It's a French language institute so French is the only language spoken between teachers and students, as well as between students. I'm taking 20 hours of classes per week. It it isn't that horrible, but it is exhausting thinking, speaking and writing in French all day in class, and then to come home and continue to speak French.
(Kim, Megan, Christy, MOI et Jennifer)

tours!


A week ago, today, I arrived in the largest city in the Loire Valley, Tours. This area is known for its chèvre and white wine. Pictured above is me and my friend Christy. We were both (as well as everyone else in the group) SO nervous about meeting our new host families. Turns out that the woman I'm living with is originally from Algeria. Her french is very good, but she also speaks Arabic! What are the odds? She speaks very little english (knows maybe 20 words max), so we speak only in French. We sometimes greet each other in Arabic, just to spice things up. She is a very good cook also. I've told her that I like middle eastern food, so she has been feeding me things that remind me of my childhood. Lots of couscous, tabouleh and olives. She made this amazing stuffed zucchini dish earlier in the week that was so good that I demanded she provide me with the recipe. She said she didn't have one.. she made it up. Just the kind of cooking I adore.

VERSAILLES


I forgot that we went to Versailles the day before we left for Tours (Saturday). I had been before when I was a lot younger so I didn't remember very much about the immense "chateau". We'll call it a chateau for reasons of simplicity, but it is more like a city within itself. It was the de facto capital of France for over a century. It is an elaborately planned palace that also housed most of the court, as well served as dwelling for the revolutionaries after the dawn of the revolution. The palace was stripped of it's furniture and decorations, and numerous statues and other "monuments" were defaced, or destroyed.

(This is the secret doorway that Marie Antoinette and her children escaped out of before the storming of Versailles in the times of the Revolution)



We were able to wander around the gardens (the fountains were on!) and eat lunch. My friends and I took full advantage of this 'free time' and overloaded our memory cards with gorgeous pictures of the foliage, statues and the ornate fountains.. and some other things..






After we toured the palace, we rode bikes a short way to the village that Marie Antoinette had built. She used this petit "village" to pretend she was a peasant. Even though she lived a very comfortable and aristocratic life, she longed for simplicity. But then again, who doesn't? She would have her servants dress up like peasants so she could play dress up and pretend she lived a different life. In the past ten years, the little village has been restored. Now it serves as an attraction for farm animal lovers, botanists, and all who appreciate the tranquility of blooming flowers against backgrounds of little cottages and meadows.



i still long for france



My friend Alexandra said something very profound on the way home from school the other day. She used this haiku to illustrate her love of France.

Even in Kyoto
hearing the cuckoo's cry
I long for Kyoto.
-Matsuo Bashõ

She said that no matter how many pastries devoured, she will never be satisfied with France. Even in France, eating a dozen pastries and experiencing their culture so rich in art, food and a simplicity of life, she will always long for France. I can't agree more. It is so hard to appreciate and soak in this escapade for what it's worth. There is no price for the enrichment of the soul.

a night to remember


(I'm in the middle with a green jacket on!)

On our last night in Paris, after a scrumptious thai dinner with the entire group (and Dr. Picone and his son Ben), half of us made the treck across the city - by metro of course. We arrived just in time to see La Tour Eiffel glitter and shine. My friends and I could not help but sing Eidth Piaf's famous song "Je ne Regrette Rien" ("I Regret Nothing"), while we watched the icon light up the Parisian sky. I'm sure we defined and exceeded every perception the French have about Americans - loud, obnoxious and overly jovial. At that point, we were so sick of trying to speak french and being answered in English that we thought it necessary to justify and portray a few detested American characteristics. The ambiance was pure magic, not just because of the place, but also because of the new found friendships discovered in the city of lights, love and bread.

In Paris they simply stared when I spoke to them in French; I never did succeed in making those idiots understand their language.-Mark Twain

Sunday, May 30, 2010

the sterotypical thing to order



If you ever find yourself in France, be sure to order the escargot. Only the best of the best chefs in the US know how to properly clean and prepare these tiny little things. if they're not cleaned correctly, they can feel gritty when you bite into the them. If it weren't for the garlicky green sauce flooded into the shells, the snails would probably taste like... fill in the blank.

paris: a week in review

I guess I’m sort of failing right now at keeping up with this blog. It is Sunday, the last day in the city of love and I still haven’t posted about the last four days, so apologies in advance – this is going to be a lengthy post. Before I condense the past couple of days, I must say that I absolutely loved Paris. It is a city unlike any other in the whole entire world. The fashion, PDA, metro passes, genius works of art, massive and elaborately ornate buildings will never tire me, but I am ready to move on with my life and experience something new. I adored the city, but the suspense and anticipation of what is to come is becoming a little out of control. Not to mention more affordable prices and less congestion. Seriously though, the price of un Coca Light is completely outrageous. Sometimes as much as €4 (almost $6) for a small glass bottle. Good thing I don’t drink soda. By the end of our Paris adventure my roommate Megan was sick of paying more for a Coke than French fries.

It’s so strange how fast the days go by here. The sun stays up longer, yet it seems that there was never enough hours in the day to do everything I wanted to do. On paper it appears that our group didn’t do THAT much, but in reality the amount of things we saw are uncountable. Through this short time in Paris, I’ve learned how to be content with not trying to see every single painting, or read every description and just be. Since we were never in the same place for more than 2 hours (besides Versailles), I discovered how to merely soak in the culture and surroundings – people watch, eavesdrop, ect. It’s definitely a lot less tiring than trudging out of breath through the various sights. I now know this from experience. It’s not the best feeling to be semi-out of breath from running around and then to try and interpret or read something. I definitely don’t recommend it.

On Wednesday we didn’t have to meet in the lobby until 3pm and so that was the day we (Megan, Lauren, Kim and I) decided to go shopping at Châtalet. We found this really cute store called Promod, and of course we made our way to H&M and Zara. I did go a little crazy, but who wouldn’t in the fashion capital of the world? I seriously found a thousand things I was obsessed with at H&M, but of course I had to weed out and pick my favorites. I got a really cute gray tulip skirt – it will be perfect for when I have a real job.


(Not all my clothes mom, most of them are Megan's new finds)

After that we found a really inexpensive café on one of the side streets where I had a delicious croque monsieur (grilled cheese and ham with more cheese melted on the top) and a small green salad. Once again I navigated us back to le Quartier Latin by the metro. I’ll have to post a map of the metro soon – it is so overwhelming with all the lines, directions, lines and lines. We met up with everyone else and made our way to le Louvre, one of the largest museums in the world. With over 35,000 works and artifacts it would probably take eight years to see and read everything. The cool thing about le Musée du Louvre is that it actually used to be a palace, so it is absolutely enormous. We had another tour guide (who also only spoke French to us – Dr. Picone isists that this is imperative). The museum was especially crowed this day, so we had to wait forever for our tour guide to come pick us up in the group waiting room. The tour guides name was Catherine and she was a tiny woman with croppy gray hair. The tour we went on was mainly just the highlights – La Jaconnde (Mona Lisa) and the Vénus de Milo and some other important pieces. I wasn’t upset that we were only going to be able to spend more than an hour and a half in the museum because no matter how many hours I had to give, it would never be enough.





Since there wasn’t any time to spare, we weren’t able to go back to the hotel to change into nicer clothes for l’Opéra. I was luckily wearing a dress, but I happened to be wearing these little gray tennis shoes also… so I felt completely underdressed. But it’s okay - life is too short to be too concerned with outfits.



I’ve always loved operas so I was really exicted to see Les Cotes d’Hofftman by Jaques Offenbach. It was about this poet named Hoffman and his three loves – a lifesize doll, an ill singer and finally a very posh singer. I had never been to a live opera so I didn’t exactly know what to expect. The ‘lyrics’ to the opera appear on a skinny rectangular screen above the stage. Without that I would have probably been clueless to what was going on. The opera was hilarious, depressing and entertaining. There were times throughout the performance when I was reminded of my lack of fluency when I found myself not laughing with the rest of the spectateurs… I definitely didn’t get all of the jokes. A little awkward.

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

JE SUIS TRÈS DÉSOLÉ!




AGAIN, I am so sorry. I am so far behind on posting. It's because my converter doesn't work in this ancient hotel and we get back so late that all I want to do is crash into my tiny bed, which I might add that I'm sharing with Megan. Good thing we're sisters, sorority sisters that is. Our hotel room is literally in the attic. The only place you can stand is around the bed, virtually no standing room, AT ALL. We had to rearrange and get rid of some furniture just so we could line our suitcases around the room. The hotel staff thinks that they compensate for the lack of space with a small flat screen television mounted on the wall. Last time I checked, it didn't work. I promise I'm not complaining, merely describing.





This short time in Paris has been amazing. I have been here since Saturday and I feel like I have been all over the entire city already. We still have until Saturday night! Yesterday, we walked to la Tour Eiffel. Since were weren't able to make reservations for our group over the phone, we had to actually go there, reserve our tickets and then wait. We got there at about 9:45 and our time wasn't until 2pm. So Dr. Picone (director, who lived in Paris for 9 years and studied at Sorbonne - very prestigious college in the heart of the Quartier Latin ) decided to take us to the Musée de L'Armée. This museum is actually a hotel for injured ex-soliders in the early 1700 (1706 was when the building was completed). Louis XIV decided it was necessary to build a place to house and care for the veterans of his war. Not only was this place a hotel, but it was also a church. The entrance to the museum is called Eglise de Dome. This is where the remains of Napoleon I is buried. His remains were brought here after Louis-Phillippe (in 1840) ordered that they be moved from the Island of Saint Helena to Paris. It is said that his body rests between five suggestive coffins.










After we walked around for a while and took pictures, we ate at this "cafeteria" that was next to the museum. The Parisian's version of a cafeteria is way different than Americans. I had a great salami and cheese sandwich (on a very large baguette). Très formidable.

We soon made our way back to la Tour Eiffel and got in line for the elevators. There was no way I was walking up after marching all over Paris. The entire area surrounding, as well as on top, was completely packed. Monday was a holiday for the French (Pentecost), so it seemed as though the entire population was crammed onto the jewel of Paris. It took about 30 minutes to make it to the top because of all the congestion. Once we got to the top, I took a lot of pictures, and the views were incredible. I have been to the top a few times, but I certainly did not remember it like that. Although we were only 324 meters up in the air, I felt like I was almost among angels, or whatever else is supposedly up there. Totally surreal. Not to mention, I got to witness a proposal! The couple was from Eastern Europe somewhere. The boyfriend handed his camera to someone to take a quick picture of he and his fiance-to-be. Seconds after the picture was taken he turned and got down on one knee. She looked absoutely shocked, but also completely in love and happy. It was so romantic, but I honestly don't think I would want a bunch of college American students staring at me if I was her - actually, I probably wouldn't even notice the gawking if it was me.






After the Eiffel Tower we took le metro back to le Quatier Latin and ate at a small Italian restaurant. Yeahhh, I know I wanted to eat at a French restaurant, but I didn't want to be 'that one girl'.




This morning (Tuesday) we had to be downstairs at 9:15. After meeting up with the group in the lobby, we made our way (by way of le metro) to Musée d'Orsay. THIS MUSEUM WAS MAGNIFIQUE. I had never been there before so I was especially excited to see what was in store. Lots of Manet, Monet, Dègas and Renoir paintings live in the old train station of a museum. Paintings aside, the building itself is crazy. Made out of metal and plaster, the entire structure is breathtaking. We had a hilarious tour guide (only spoke in French) take us around the different periods of the impressionist movement.

After posing in front of a very large elephant statue outside the museum, we headed to le Jardin des Tuileries, where we stopped at a small café. I had salade nicoise and Perrier - so French, I know. I keep meaning to take pictures of everything I eat, but I'm usually starving, so I dig in IMMEDIATELY.

Refueled and recharged, we made our way to Montmartres. It is on the home to the most amazing church in all of Paris, Le Sacre Coeur. It is located on top of a very steep hill and at the entrance of the church the entire landscape of buildings can be seen. Despite the holy site, the area itself is very sketchy. It is really discouraged for tourists to be there late at night. It is now considered to be the "ghetto" of Paris, mostly because of the red light district, and a large numbe rof immigrants and peddlers that inhabit this region.


The church itself is absolutely astounding. The entire time I was in Sacre Coeur, I could not stop humming the church hymn.."Surely the presence of the Lord is in this place, I can feel... daaa da da daaaa". With all of the candles, solemn faces and praying hands, I was positive that He was there with me.

We sat in front of the Church for a while and watched some people break dance and some others throw around some frisbees and large sticks with fire coming out of either side for sympathy euro cents. Then, since we could see a storm coming and people were hungry, we took the metro back to Les Champs Elysées. This is where the shoppers and nonshoppers (aka. the boys and girls) split. One group went back to the hotel, and the rest of us went for some retail therapy. After, a long day of walking, just what we wanted.. MORE WALKING. I guess at the moment of decisions, our feet stopped screaming. It wasn't long until our poor feet began to cry again. A few stores later, we decided to make our way back to our hotel and grab something to eat. Well, easier said than done. We had to navigate our way through the metro system, wait no scratch that, I had to navigate us. Why was I the chosen one? NO IDEA, but it was definitely scary. This was not a time for my directional handicap syndrome to kick in. Luckily after studying the metro map I somehow managed to get us back to the metro stop closest to our hotel. I must say I was very impressed with myself.


Tomorrow (Wednesday) we are free to do what we please until 3pm. We have to meet in the lobby to then make our way to le Louvre for another guided tour. After than we are going to the Opéra!!!! So excited about that. Megan and I are going back to Champs L'Esyées, La Durée (adorable macaroon shop) and hopefully find Topshop and H&M. That's all for now. BON SOIR from the city of love, lights and metro stops.

PS I PROMISE MORE PICTURES COMING SOOOON. It takes so long for them to post.

xxo Gigi